Ready for the cutting table.
Sheath Dress — Minidress
Specification
- Master Block
- Sheath Dress
- Variation
- Minidress
- Fit Profile
- Fashion Royalty (12.5")
- Bust
- 130mm
- Waist
- 90mm
- Hips
- 132mm
- Fabric
- Woven
- Lining
- —
- Facings
- —
- Seam Allowance
- 6mm
- Format
- A4 / US Letter
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How to sew the sheath dress
Suggested machine: stretch needle 70/10 · narrow zig-zag or stretch stitch · 6mm SA
- Step 01
Cut your pieces
Cut 1 pair Front and 1 pair Back panels in a stable woven fabric such as cotton sateen, ponte, or wool crepe. Cut an identical set of facing pieces for the neckline and armholes. Transfer every dart, notch, and the CENTER BACK closure line. All pieces include a 6mm seam allowance.
- Step 02
Stay-stitch the curves
Stay-stitch 4mm from the raw edge around each neckline and armhole on both the Front and Back panels. This prevents the bias curves from stretching as you handle the dress.
- Step 03
Stitch the darts
Fold each bust dart along its centre line, right sides together, and stitch from the side seam to the dart point, tapering off the fabric so the last few stitches run parallel to the fold. Tie off the threads — do not backstitch the point. Repeat for the waist darts on both Front and Back. Press the bust darts down toward the waist and the waist darts toward the centre.
- Step 04
Sew the shoulder seams
Place Front to Back right sides together at the shoulders, matching the neckline and armhole notches. Stitch at 6mm, finish the seam allowance with a narrow zig-zag, and press the seam toward the back.
- Step 05
Sew the side seams
With the dress still right sides together, pin the side seams from the underarm down through the WAIST and HIP notches all the way to the hem. Stitch in one continuous pass at 6mm. Press the seams open over a sleeve board so the silhouette stays smooth.
- Step 06
Build the facings
Join the neckline facing pieces at the shoulders, and the armhole facings at the underarms. Press the seams open and finish the outer edge of each facing with a narrow zig-zag or overlocker.
- Step 07
Attach the neckline facing
Pin the neckline facing to the dress right sides together, matching shoulder seams. Stitch at 6mm, clip the curve, trim the seam allowance to 3mm, and turn the facing to the inside. Understitch 2mm from the seam so it rolls cleanly to the wrong side and press.
- Step 08
Attach the armhole facings
Repeat the same process on each armhole: stitch the facing right sides together at 6mm, clip the curve, trim, turn, understitch, and press. Tack the facing to the shoulder and side seam allowances with a few hand stitches to keep it in place.
- Step 09
Install the centre-back closure
Press the CENTER BACK seam allowances under by 6mm. Install three or four invisible snaps or tiny hook-and-eye sets evenly spaced from neckline to high hip, with the topmost closure at the neckline edge.
- Step 10
Hem the dress
Try the dress on the doll and mark the final length. Press the hem allowance up by 4mm, fold again by 8mm, and slip-stitch by hand for an invisible finish, or topstitch close to the inner fold for a sportier look.
- Step 11
Press & finish
Give the dress a final press on a tailor's ham, paying attention to the bust and waist darts so they sit smoothly. Trim every thread tail and your sheath is ready for the cutting-table reveal.