Step 03 — Pattern Export

Ready for the cutting table.

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MB.03 · Draft v.04

Corset / Structured Bodice — Strapless

CENTER FRONTBUSTWAISTFront · StraplessF · CUT 1 PAIRCENTER BACK · LACEBUSTWAISTBackB · CUT 1 PAIRFRONTBACKHIP— — — STITCH LINE──── CUT LINE (+6mm SA)
1 in

Specification

Master Block
Corset / Structured Bodice
Variation
Strapless
Fit Profile
Fashion Royalty (12.5")
Bust
130mm
Waist
90mm
Hips
132mm
Fabric
Woven
Lining
—
Facings
—
Seam Allowance
6mm
Format
A4 / US Letter
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Construction Guide

How to sew the corset / structured bodice

Suggested machine: stretch needle 70/10 · narrow zig-zag or stretch stitch · 6mm SA

  1. Step 01

    Cut your pieces

    Cut 1 pair Front and 1 pair Back panels from a stable fashion fabric such as cotton sateen, duchess satin, or silk taffeta. Cut an identical set from coutil or heavy cotton for the lining/strength layer. Transfer all princess seam markings, boning channel positions, and the CENTER BACK · LACE line. All pieces include a 6mm seam allowance.

  2. Step 02

    Build the boning channels

    Working on the coutil lining pieces only, mark vertical channels along each princess seam and each side seam. Stitch parallel rows 5mm apart to form a sleeve for 3mm spiral steel boning. Cut each boning length 3mm shorter than its channel, file the ends smooth, dip them in clear nail polish, and slide one into every channel.

  3. Step 03

    Sew the princess seams

    Place each centre Front to its side Front right sides together. Pin the curved princess seam matching the BUST notch and WAIST notch. Stitch at 6mm, clipping the curve gently afterwards. Repeat for the Back panels. Press each princess seam toward the side body.

  4. Step 04

    Close the side seams

    Sew Front to Back at the side seams, right sides together, at 6mm. Repeat exactly the same construction on the lining layer. Press all seams open.

  5. Step 05

    Attach fashion fabric to lining

    Place the fashion fabric and lining shells right sides together. Stitch around the top edge — including the sweetheart curve — and around the bottom edge at 6mm, leaving the CENTER BACK edges open so you can turn the bodice through. Carefully clip every curve and notch every corner.

  6. Step 06

    Turn, press & understitch

    Turn the bodice right side out through the open back. Use a point turner to push out the sweetheart curve. Press flat from the lining side, then understitch the lining 2mm from the top edge so it rolls cleanly to the inside.

  7. Step 07

    Finish the centre back

    Press the CENTER BACK seam allowances under by 6mm on both layers and slip-stitch closed. This creates two clean back edges ready for eyelets.

  8. Step 08

    Install the lacing

    Mark eyelet positions along each CENTER BACK · LACE line at 8mm intervals, staggering the left and right rows for spiral lacing. Punch each hole and set a 2mm metal eyelet using setting pliers. Thread a 60cm length of 2mm satin ribbon through the eyelets, lace from waist up to bust, and tie a neat bow at the top.

  9. Step 09

    Press & finish

    Give the finished bodice a final press on a tailor's ham to preserve the shaped curves. Trim all thread tails and dust the lining lightly with cornstarch if it feels stiff against the doll.